A correctly sized suit jacket is usually recognised by three signs: the hem covers the seat when seen from the side, it falls near where the fingers curl when your arms hang, and it runs parallel to the floor. These are tailoring conventions rather than fixed figures, because height, leg proportion and cut all play a part. Five checks will tell you whether a jacket fits.
Five places to look
Check in front of a full-length mirror, in the shoes you normally wear, with the shirt you will actually put underneath:
- Hem against the seat: stand side-on. The hem generally just covers the seat. A hem much higher makes the jacket look cropped; one too low makes the body look heavy.
- Hem against the hand: let your arms fall straight and see where the hem sits relative to your curled fingers. It is a widely used quick test, but people with long or short arms may differ, so treat it as a guide.
- Hem against the floor: from the side, the hem should run parallel to the ground. A hem that kicks up at the back often signals a tight seat; one that dips at the front often points to shoulders or collar that do not yet fit.
- Sleeve against the wrist: the sleeve should end at the wrist bone, showing roughly 1–1.5 cm of shirt cuff. A sleeve swallowing the hand, or leaving the whole cuff exposed, is wrong.
- In motion: raise your arms, sit down, reach for a document. A good jacket does not drag at the collar, and its hem does not ride up.
Why the same style needs different lengths
When a whole team is fitted, a tall person and a short person wear the same style of jacket but cannot share one length. Cut identically, it reads as a long coat on the shorter wearer and looks ridden up on the taller one. A jacket that is too long shortens the legs; one that is too short lengthens the torso.
That is why individual measuring matters more than a generic size chart. Mon Amie measures each employee at the office and stores the figures under their employee ID, so people already measured need not be measured again for later orders. New hires are measured on their own and the garments are made to the approved sample, so the style is shared while the length still suits the person. The photo below is of a uniform project Mon Amie has carried out.
Do men's and women's jackets follow the same rule?
The principle is the same, a hem in proportion to torso and legs, but in practice they differ:
- Men's business jackets: the classic cut is longer, covering the seat. Modern cuts may be a little shorter but still need to cover the trouser waistband.
- Women's business jackets: usually shorter, with emphasis on the waist. Some end at the hip and others fall past it, depending on figure and whether a skirt or trousers are worn.
- Blazers: often cut more freely, so the length can differ from a suit jacket.
Fabric also changes how length reads. Soft, fluid cloth lets a hem fall naturally; firmer cloth keeps it straighter. The fabric library is a good place to compare.
Signs, causes and remedies
| Sign | Common cause | Remedy |
|---|---|---|
| Hem too high, seat exposed | Cut short for the torso | Lengthen at the next make, or let the hem down if there is allowance |
| Hem too low, wearer looks shorter | Pattern cut for taller people | Reduce length to individual measurements |
| Hem kicks up at the back | Tight seat, or shoulders not yet right | Re-check measurements and adjust the fit |
| Sleeve covers the hand | Sleeve too long | Shorten the sleeve |
| Too much cuff showing | Sleeve short, or shirt long | Try with the shirt actually worn |
At delivery, staff try the garments on and Mon Amie makes adjustments on the spot, with free alterations for 3 years at every showroom. How much can be altered depends on seams and spare cloth, so check length at the fitting. The full sequence is summarised in our six-step process.
For orientation, men's business suits start from 3,000,000 VND (minimum 5 sets) and women's business suits from 1,500,000 VND (minimum 5 sets); the real price moves with fabric, style and quantity. To price your own team, send your details through the quote page or call 0888.111.118.
Frequently asked questions
How long should a men's suit jacket be?
There is no single figure. The hem usually covers the seat and sits near the knuckles when your arms hang, but height and leg proportion decide. The sure way is to be measured by a tailor and then try a sample in front of a mirror.
Is a women's jacket as long as a men's?
No. Women's jackets are usually shorter and shaped at the waist; some end at the hip, others fall lower. What counts is a hem in proportion to torso and legs, not an identical number.
Can a jacket that arrives slightly long or short be altered?
In many cases yes, but how much depends on seams and spare cloth. Mon Amie alters free of charge for 3 years at every showroom, and checking length at delivery lets you deal with it early.
How much shirt cuff should show below the sleeve?
Usually around 1–1.5 cm. That is a common convention; try the jacket with the shirt you will actually wear.
